Kids Who Stare at Goats

Our Adventures in Oman

This past weekend we ventured out of the country for the first time since we arrived.  We traveled by car to Oman, the country just East and South of the UAE.  It is about a 2 hour drive, and our resort was on the coast of Oman just outside Dibba in a little cove called Zighy Bay.  Paradise was waiting, but alas we got lost on the journey.  And when you are "lost" in the desert, it is not the "Augusto is too proud to stop at the gas station and ask" kind of lost.  It is LOST.  As in, dirt roads, no road signs AT ALL, no civilization, no other cars. The roads are totally unmarked, and if you consult your navigation system it cheerfully advises you that you are driving in the middle of nothing, not even on a road.  However, much like California (only reversed), if you continue to drive East you will eventually hit the Gulf of Oman and you can go from there.  So, we weren't too worried (although the dead camel by the side of the road did give me pause), and soon reconnected with our course. 

In order to access Zighy Bay, you can either parasail, speedboat, or take your car over a steep dirt mountain pass.  We opted for the speedboat.  We departed from Dibba Port, which was filled with old traditional Dhows (large transport boats), and the moment we left the port all you could see was the Gulf and mountains.  

We cruised taking in the beautiful mountains for about 15 minutes, when we rounded a rock formation into a stunning cove.  Set against the mountains was our resort, Zighy Bay.  It is difficult to explain the beauty, because it is so sparse and almost barren, but the organic, untouched mountains are spectacular.  Our room was set right on the soft sand beach, complete with it's own pool, and the resort is the only civilization in the cove.  The tiny figure in the picture below (taken from directly in front of our room) is Caroline

We were lucky to be joined by some wonderful friends we have made here - the Bryant Family.  Emily, Deric, Blake (9), Olivia (7), Luke (5) and Lilly (1).  The children quickly formed a beach posse, and went native.  They played in the surf, sand and pool for hours and hours, enjoying the largely deserted resort.  They kayaked out around the cove and snorkeled, seeing a school of Angel fish, two Squids, Sea Snakes, a giant Ray, and all kind of other critters.  The cove is densely populated with wild goats, and the kids had a blast feeding the very friendly four legged friends.



We spent a long, luxurious and relaxing weekend, and we were all sad to leave.  Feeling adventurous, we opted for the 4X4 mountain trek on the way out, and wound our way on dirt switchbacks up and over the mountain.  It was nail biting, but stunning. 



Coming from the urban sprawl of Dubai, this little part of Oman was simply heavenly.  As always, we think of each of you when we travel, and in a very real way you are always on our adventures with us! 

My So Called Arabian Life

Lest you all think that I am only living the glamorous life, I will share with you some of the things that are uniquely different, and usually challenging, about living here in Dubai.  For those of you who are only interested in the exciting parts of our life - this is not for you.  You can skip this entry and continue on to our Oman trip (coming soon).  Here it is, the good, the bad, and the bizarre:

TELEVISION
Sure, we have American TV here.  I've particularly enjoyed re-watching the first season of House in completely random order.  I also have been able to catch up on some classics like "Keeping up with the Kardashians" and "Leave it to Llamas", and Augusto's favorite, "Dating in the Dark".  Oh - and the Bachelor is pretty current.  I love that Andrew Firestone.  You can get a device called a Slingbox, which will somehow magically (or through technology, unclear) forward your American TV here.  We don't have that yet.  You can also watch Soccer on 8 channels.  At all times.  Or, you can watch Arabic movies, which invariably involve some sort of deal with a very flamboyantly dressed devil which results in everyone breaking into song and dance.  If you are looking for an education, sometimes you can find an American movie on, but then the Arabic subtitles on the top and the French and Chinese subtitles below largely obscure the action.

GROCERIES
There are some very nice British markets - like Waitrose and Choithram - in which we can get many things we are used to having back home, plus other goodies like pickled gherkins.  Not sure what those are, but they take up almost an entire aisle in Waitrose, so they must be good.  The part of shopping that I find most challenging is that almost all of the grocery stores are located within a mall.  So, you park your car in the mall, grocery shop, and then push your cart back through the mall to your car.  Would be much easier if the floors weren't heavily waxed, causing inexperienced mall cart drivers to lose control of their purchases and crash into cellular phone carts in the middle of the mall (I'm just saying).  There is one "American" market called Safestway (not SAFEway) where you can pay 25DHS (or the equivalent of roughly $8) for Cheerios.  Trust me, it's worth it.  However, nowhere in the UAE seems to have Goldfish crackers.  My very kind friend from Texas actually gifted me a Costco sized goldfish box that she smuggled all the way from America.  I love her.

DRIVING
Too bad I didn't get licensed by Nascar before arriving.  Driving here is hazardous for many reasons.  1)All it takes for expats from many countries to get a license is an eye test.  2) They are CONSTANTLY changing the roads, and everything is under construction - so that exit ramp that you took yesterday may be totally gone, and the only warning is a single cone 5 feet before the exit.  This causes a lot of very rapid lane changing on everyone's part. 3) 50% of the people drive like either their asses are on fire and they need to get to water, or someone in the front seat of their car is in immediate danger of giving birth and they don't want to stain their leather.  I'm talking FAST!  And they weave in and out of the other 50% of the people who drive about 40 mph on the freeway.  All in all, it's pretty scary.  I'm surviving using skills I learned while skiing - the person in FRONT of you is totally in charge, and they may swerve, stop, flail or crash at any moment, so watch out! 

SERVICE
The service industry here is insane.  Everyone wants to help you, because it is their job to do so.  Perfect example is the mall - there are three guys wearing vests telling you where to park.  There are three guys who run up to you and ask to wash your car for you while you shop.  I have been asked if I need assistance pushing my cart through the grocery and retrieving items from the shelves.  Then, your groceries are bagged for you and someone wants to push the cart out to your car and unload it.  After a few near misses with the waxed floor (see above), I now allow them to do so.  They don't expect tips, although of course they are appreciated. At first, not wanting to impose on everyone - I acted like a three year old - "I CAN DO IT MYSELF!".  Then, I realized that these are truly jobs, and it's somewhat offensive to the people doing them to refuse help.  The groundskeeper at our house was completely scandalized when I strolled out in my very own backyard, fired up the bbq, and started scrubbing off the grill, while wearing my bikini (it was HOT people!) and having a beer.  He let out a strangled "MA'AM!!!" and tried to relieve me of the scrubber while not looking at me in my bathing suit - so he ended up backing up towards me and waving his hands behind his back. I also love that they deliver the dry cleaning.  I know - we have that service at home - but here the list of things you can have dry cleaned includes your Dishdasha, Gathra, Salwar Suit, Safari Suit (you know how dirty those safaris can be),  or your Salwar Khamis. 

WEATHER
Have we mentioned that it is hot here? 

BILLS
Paying bills is definitely different. You don't write checks and mail them, nor can you go on-line to pay them.  For cable (because I have to see what happens to Kim and Khloe) you have to pay at the mall (are you seeing a theme here?).  For electricity and water, you get to pay at the gas station.  For gas, we're not sure.  We got a bill but don't know how to pay it.  Last time the "gas guy" knocked on our door and said "Gas Guy. Your bill 350 dirhams.  You pay now." So we did.  Best not to take chances.  We're kind of hoping he comes around again, so they don't turn off our gas.  You also pay for a service contract on your home, so if anything goes wrong you call the service company.  They will then send anywhere from 8-10 men over to look at the problem.  Literally, they stand around and look at it.  After much deliberation they formulate a plan.  Sometimes, it's a good plan.  Sometimes it involves things like trying to tie two 12 foot step ladders together using string to make a 24 foot step ladder to try to reach the ceiling of the villa.

THE PHONES
Let's just say I feel very blonde when it comes to this little piece of technology I should have mastered back in the 1970's. All the phone numbers are different lenghts, different prefixes, and completely confound me.  Here are some examples:  Augusto is 55-454-0173. Home is 4-444-6656.  My friend Karen is 50-925-6419.  Sometimes you need to dial +971 beforehand, but I can't find a key with a "+" on my landline phone.  I have absolutely no idea what my own cell phone number is.  How does that happen?   So, if I never call you, it's because I really can't figure out how. 


Nevertheless, it is these little differences that make living here exciting.  We are still having a wonderful time, the kids love school, and all is well.  Thinking of everyone daily!!

Dinner with Expats

So, the dinner party here takes on a whole new meaning!  First, I have to say we probably have a fuller social calendar here than we do in the states, because since everyone is from somewhere else they are all eager to make new friends. This weekend alone we have three dinner parties - and the dinner party here is quite the social event.

On Thursday (the beginning of our weekend) we had a fantastic night with our new friends from Texas - new Expats to Dubai just like us. They have 4 beautiful children - three girls aged 9, 7 and 1 and one (very outnumbered but adorable) boy age 5.  They had us over to their lovely house in Emirates Hills - a new housing community and one of the greener areas in Dubai.  The kids had a FABULOUS time running wild in their huge pool and yard, eating nuggets and ice cream, playing Moxie girls and soldiers, and watching a movie.  All 5 of them (the baby was sleeping) get along famously, and they are like a little desert posse already. We ate homemade mexican food (which you can't get here in restaurants) and had a special Texas drink called Summer Beer, which rivals my house specialty of the Iced Tea drink, and WOW do those sneak up on you!  I'll make y'all a big pitcher when I get home.  A great night all around!

On Friday we were invited to another home on the Palm owned by our friends - he is the president of Atlantis Dubai - which makes for a splendid dinner party.  Their home is beautiful - set for entertaining - and he used all the hotel resources (including furniture from the hotel) to pull out all the stops.  Upon arriving the staff greeted us with fresh juices, champagne and cold towels.  We then proceeded to the back yard, which was fully decorated in arabian style with lanterns and torches all over the beach and a beautiful arabic dining area with pillows, drapes and flowers everywhere. You could kayak, fish, swim or innertube off the beach - all assisted by a full staff of Atlantis employees.  The chefs at Atlantis cooked an amazing dinner of lamb, short ribs, local fish and salads, topped off with the most amazing assortment of pasteries.  But the best part was the guest list!  We met (and thorougly enjoyed) the Vice President/Incoming President of Maldives and his family - his wife, daughter, and son in law (from Cupertino, CA!) and their children.  They, of course, were the guests of honor - but were the most fun, easy going people and such a pleasure to hang out with.  The other guests were their neighbors - a German appliance importer who looked like the Big Lebowski and was the seriously the funniest person I have ever met.  I now have lots of German cultural tidbits like "Did you know it's not a real Weinerschnitzel unless it's as big as a toilet?" or "I try to teach my boys - if it's free, eat all you can.  Free food is not to be taken lightly.  No really, stuff it in.  Get some whipped cream on that ice cream".

It is truly a marvelous experience to sit at a dinner table with people from all over the world and laugh at the things that all draw us together - children, expat life, and, well, weinerschnitzel.  It brings it home that at the bottom of things - hoteliers, bankers, toaster salesmen and presidents are just people.  

Tomorrow night we are hosting Augusto's team (6 bankers, their wives and families) for Italian night.  I'm cooking pasta.  Yes, for those of you who have sampled my cooking, I will need your thoughts and prayers.  Wish me luck.  Too bad I don't have the staff at Atlantis at my disposal! 

Next weekend we are taking off for Oman.  We're staying at resort in a beach cove, and you can choose to access it by speedboat or paragliding.  We're going with speedboat.  The weather here is STILL crazy hot - over 100 and 95ish at night. 

We think of home and all our wonderful friends and families there often!  We hope you are all well!